Lalay Lodge, an in-depth review

Who is it for?

Those wanting to stay somewhere that’s off-the-beaten track, unscripted and sustainable in nature.

Location

A combined one-hour tuk-tuk and boat journey away from Thandwe (Ngapali) airport, you’ll find Maung Shwe Lay, a tropical fishing village nestled in a sheltered, white sand cove. Although remote, it’s far from lifeless, with signs of local industry apparent immediately upon nearing the village’s palm-fringed shores. Being a working beach, people are at the very heart, not cabanas, sunbeds and parasols. As a compromise, you’ll need to settle for tree-swinging hammocks and plump beanbags, best enjoyed whilst sipping on a chilled glass of white wine from Lalay Lodge’s community-run restaurant.

The boat transfer from Ngapali to Maung Shwe Lay

Style and character

Designed by Mary Lou Thomson—an Australian architect the owner encountered by chance in Kachin State—a praiseworthy effort has been made to incorporate locally inspired styles, techniques and materials into Lalay Lodge’s build. The nipa palm thatched roofing, admirably compliments the remaining traditional-style dwellings in Maung Shwe Lay; the patterns on each of the guest room windows are identical to that found on traditional Rakhine doors; and the pillars used to support the balcony have been inspired by a colonial townhouse in Thandwe. Blending faultlessly with the surrounds aside, modest touches of local luxury can found in every nook and cranny: from colourful Rakhine fabrics to reclaimed, rattan-bottomed chairs, the living areas of Lalay Lodge are contrastingly polished.

Oozing with character

Service and facilities

Approximately 1,500 people live in Maung Shwe Lay, with 15 people making up the team at Lalay Lodge; this is a remarkable feat when you consider the property’s small size. In a community where fishing and farming have long dominated the employment market, residents now have the chance to gain invaluable skills in tourism and hospitality, two of the country’s fastest developing and skill-hungry sectors. With this being a first full-time job for many, it wouldn’t be fair to come expecting scripted, mainstream perfection; instead, you’ll receive something far superior: service that’s from the heart and an assurance that any money spent directly benefits the staff and wider community. Overseeing the operations however is Pam, a bubbly British national, who has a respectable and varied wealth of tourism-related experience under her belt. Blessed with dulcet northern tones, it is Pam’s job to galvanise and support the development the team, elevating them to a level that may someday befit that of a Rosewood or Belmond.

Pam with some members of the Lalay Lodge team

The facilities, expectedly for a property of this size and class, are meagre. There’s a huge natural swimming pool at the front—in the form of the Bay of Bengal—that will be sure to delight most. Overlooking this is Lalay Lodge’s centrepiece, an open-air beachfront restaurant, erected using reclaimed beams, procured from dismantled timber houses. This also doubles up as the bar with its enviable wide-stretching counter, commissioned for the lodge by Yangon Green Furniture. Conveniently close to this area are the aforementioned beanbags and hammocks, naturally shaded by swaying coconut trees.

Part of the Green Furniture commissioned bar counter

Rooms

Generously proportioned, with phenomenally comfortable beds, these character-oozing, polished rooms might just be some of the most eye-catching at this price point (more to come on this shortly). Most of the furniture you will find has been hand-crafted and sustainably sourced, with the rubberwood bedside tables and benches providing a refreshing alternative to teak.

Inside one of Lalay Lodge’s well-appointed rooms

The pitched, beam-exposed ceilings of the top floor rooms provide an amplified sense of space. These also open up onto a shared balcony area, whereas the ground floor equivalents benefit from instant courtyard access. Two sloped back, rattan armchairs can be found outside each room; retiring in these each evening was heavenly, especially in the presence of a full moon.

The ground floor rooms have instant courtyard access

The bathrooms are surprisingly large, with ample storage and an open shower design. Due to Lalay Lodge’s 100% solar powered setup, the water can take some time to heat, but as we hope you’ll agree, this is a small price to pay for the privilege of going generator-less. Even the air-conditioning units are powered by sun, although we didn’t need it once during our two-night stay.

Food and drink

Breakfast is included within the room rate, whereas lunch and dinner will need to be purchased on the day; at the time of writing, the per person prices were MMK12,000 (USD 8.5) and MMK 15,000 (USD 10.5) respectively. Classic Bamar and speciality Rakhine dishes are served daily, with the seafood curries and salads being the ones that aroused the most mmms and ahhhs. It’s really no wonder when the produce has been freshly plucked from the waters in front of you.

A meal fit for Myanmar royalty

Those with dietary restrictions can be catered for, but plenty of advanced notice would need to be given.

Things to do

Being a beach stay, we assume that relaxation is going to be right up there on your list of priorities. When it comes to this, Lalay Lodge has you covered: there’s a communal courtyard of white sand, hammocks and an incredibly snug duvet set draped over each bed. With it being a living part of the village, anyone staying will need to be prepared for the unpredictability associated with this: from wedding celebrations to the territorial barking of dogs, expect a few locally-unique interruptions here and there. There’s just as much chance of this happening in the nearby Ngapali however, so it’s not exactly an issue unique to Lalay Lodge; travellers should expect this when overnighting in any rural Myanmar destination.

Reading from Lalay Lodge’s was a delight!

We feel that relaxation should be demoted on your list of priorities anyway, especially when there’s myriad adventure-focused excursions on offer. All bookable locally, you can enjoy (click on the title to learn more):

It’s also possible to rent bikes for as little as MMK5,000 per day (approximately USD3.5). Snorkels and masks are available free of charge, as are stand-up paddle boards and various floats.

What will you find on your adventure?

Sustainability

Sustainability is an area in which Lalay Lodge really excels.

Lalay Lodge has taken an immediate stand against single-use plastics

• With the exception of Pam, who’s there to oversee the operational side of things and provide expert industry guidance, it’s 100% community-run.

• The ingredients used for breakfast, lunch and dinner are supplied by resident farmers and fisherfolk, ensuring absolute freshness and that the the wider-community benefit from your custom. The same applies to the entrepreneurs operating every single transfer and excursion.

• The property is 100% solar-powered, with the state-of-the-art system even having the ability to make ice cubes!

• You’ll find no single-use plastic. Water refill stations can be found in the restaurant, glass jugs in the room, and the shampoo, shower gel and body lotion are dispensed from refillable bottles.

• Grey water is collected separately and used to water the low-maintenance courtyard garden.

• For the construction, locally-produced handmade bricks were used, along with mostly reclaimed and upcycled wood.

• Conscious about the impact of guest waste, Lalay Lodge has arranged for a garbage collection system to be installed. Remarkably, the whole community will benefit from this, with it being heavily subsidised for those who can’t afford.

Who says reusable looks ugly?

If you’re keen to make a difference whilst indulging in sun, sea and sand, Lalay Lodge is one of the few properties we could confidently recommend.

Value for money

At USD130 a night, this is one of the best pound-for-pound beach stays in the country. The only property that comes close to competing is Arakan Nature Lodge—another one of our favourites—but that’s a completely different style. You will find lower cost options in Ngapali, but they will feel more mainstream and nowhere near as personal. The build quality is also superior to anything in this price range, with the management’s sincere focus on sustainability giving it an undeniable edge.

We’d quite happily pay for access to the beach alone!

Barrier-free access

With an an abundance of sand and steps, a stay here is unfortunately not going to suit anyone travelling with mobility issues. We’d be more than happy to discuss alternatives, or potential compromises that would need to be made in order for a stay here to work.

‘Wonky’ modelling on Lalay Lodge’s steps

Family-friendly

For families seeking a sense of adventure and something that’s culturally immersive, a stay here will tick all the boxes. Don’t expect too much flexibility when it comes to dining however: you won’t find any western options and what’s served depends on what the fisherfolk and farmers have available on the day. Understandably, this won’t be ideal if travelling with picky children in tow. Due to there being a staircase with gaps and balconies with climbable chairs nearby, we’d recommend the ground floor rooms as default for families travelling with small infants.

Every kid (big or small!) loves a ride in a tuk-tuk

Thank you to the following people for making our stay here so memorable: Edwin, Pam, Mon Mon, Su Su, Phyu Phyu, Khin Khin, Phyo Lay, Mi Lay, Thandar Aung, Aung, Phoe La, Thar Nge, Maung Maung, Aung Lay, Mie Ngal, Ma Cho and A Pu. You’re all amazing and we’re confident you’ll have a very bright future in store! 👏👏👏