Kayah Resort

 

Rating: Medium

 

One of the most recent additions to Loikaw’s emerging hotel scene, Kayah Resort is the only true resort style properties in the area. Being a short drive from the airport and Loikaw’s bustling town centre, a stay here gives you the best of both worlds when it comes to being centrally located and peaceful (by Myanmar standards anyway).

 

At 30 square metres the entry-level Deluxe rooms are spacious and extremely well appointed, especially when you take the town’s remote nature into account. With a large flat screen TV, air conditioning, complimentary Wi-Fi and an outdoor seating area, you’ll have everything you need to put your feet up after a long day’s worth of touring. There’s also the option of taking a dip in the swimming pool, followed by a lie down on an umbrella-shaded sunbed.

 

Due to it having an extremely spacious two-bedroom suite and swimming pool, Tour Mandalay considers Kayah Resort to be the best family or group option in the area.

 

Facilities:

  • Swimming pool
  • Restaurant
  • Bar

 

Keen to know what people on TripAdvisor are saying about this property? Please click here to find out.

 

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Loikaw Lodge

 

Rating: Medium

 

Located north of Loikaw’s main centre, Loikaw Lodge is a small, family owned boutique hotel that peacefully overlooks Hteengarhlyar Lake. Each of the twelve spacious, light flooded rooms ooze character and a distinct local charm. This has been achieved thanks to the owners (a German national and his Burmese wife) choosing to design most of the furniture, fabric and artwork in-house before having it made locally. Books have been provided in place of a TV, and large photo prints of regionally inspired scenes brighten the walls. The rooms also boast well-appointed bathroom facilities, wireless internet access and air-conditioning facilities.

 

The care and attention that Loikaw Lodge put into their cuisine is also worth a special mention. With items sourced regularly from the local market, the owners are passionate about creating seasonal dishes that are fresh, tasty and authentic in flavour. For those looking for something more familiar in taste and substance, the expertly prepared Italian dishes come highly recommended. They also serve homemade lemonade, passion fruit soda and some of the best coffee in town.

 

In a region that’s still relatively off the beaten track and unfamiliar to tourists, Loikaw Lodge have done an excellent job at creating something that feels genuinely local, comfortable, exclusive and unique in style. Very few properties have successfully managed to pull this off (at a reasonable price), which is why we’d go so far as to say this is currently one of our favourite properties in Myanmar.

 

Facilities: 

  • Restaurant
  • Cafe

 

Keen to know what people on TripAdvisor are saying about this property? Please click here to find out.

 

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Hpa-an Lodge

 

Rating: Deluxe

 

Located on the outskirts of Hpa-an, this boutique lodge provides its guests with a wonderful oasis from which to enjoy the town’s picturesque and natural surroundings. All of the Karen-style, stilted wooden chalets look out onto the imposing Mt Zwegabin, with the rooms towards the back boasting the best views. Considering its remote location, the food served here is also exceptional, with the potential to please even the most cautious of diners. In November 2016 Hpa-an Lodge added a new room category, Sky Dome, which offers a glamping (luxury camping) style experience under Zwegabin and (possibly) a starlit night sky.

 

 

Facilities:

  • Restaurant
  • Swimming pool

 

Keen to know what people on TripAdvisor are saying about this property? Please click here to find out.

 

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Burma Boating

Just before the end of the sailing season (cruises typically operate from October to May), Tour Mandalay were lucky enough to find last minute availability onboard Burma Boating’s SY Jubilaeum. To borrow the description from Burma Boating’s website, ‘With her flowing lines, embodies the timeless elegance of a classic ketch. She was designed and built by the renowned boat builders of Kemeu Engineering in New Zealand. This Don Brooke Pilot House 77 features a steel hull construction with full keel, beautiful teak deck and woodwork throughout and an impressive cabin design.’ So in short, this is a corker of a boat.

 

 

Before we got the chance to meet the lady herself, it was first necessary to stay overnight in Kawthaung. If flying from Yangon, currently it’s only possible to arrive early afternoon, which doesn’t work with the 10am departure time (due to them needing to make the most of daylight, this is usually the case for all of Burma Boating’s cruises). With this in mind, we booked a night at the Victoria Cliff Hotel, which is by far the best option for anyone that appreciates his or her creature comforts. Although it doesn’t really have much of a Myanmar feel (it predominantly caters for Thai tourists), a stay here was extremely pleasant. For us, the highlight was the view from the pool, which wonderfully complimented the crisp taste of our chilled Myanmar beers. There’s also a gym and small spa, so passing time at Victoria Cliff Hotel is going to be the least of your worries.

 

The view from the infinity pool at Victoria Cliff Hotel

 

After enjoying a leisurely morning at the hotel (NOTE: to ensure freshness, we’d recommend eating breakfast early!), Burma Boating escorted us directly from Victoria Cliff to Kawthaung jetty. Kawthaung itself is a lively town, with a mishmash of Myanmar and Thai influence. An imposing golden statue of King Bayinnaung (said to be one of the three great kings alongside Anawrahta and Alaungpaya) quickly reminds us that we’re still very much in Myanmar. It wasn’t long until the speedboat was ready to ferry us across to the anchored SY Jubilaeum. Before setting sail, or should we say starting up the motor (there was no wind whatsoever), it was necessary to complete the compulsory immigration checks. Whilst the officials filled out the necessary paperwork onboard, some birds of prey put on an impressive hunting display in the distance.

 

A bird of prey hunts for fish at Kawthaung jetty

 

Our captain for the next five nights was the young, smiley and ever-enthusiastic Aye Min Htet. Accompanying him was a small team whose duty was to navigate, clean, cook and make sure the experience ran smoothly from start to finish. Due to the number of crew outnumbering the number passengers, it didn’t take long for us to feel incredibly spoilt.

 

Captain Aye, a man never short of a smile

 

After being consulted about our individual interests, Captain Aye put together a tailored route that included snorkelling, kayaking, hiking, fishing and plenty of opportunity to interact with local people.

 

Captain Aye runs through the sailing schedule shortly before leaving Kawthaung jetty

 

Another key ingredient to the Burma Boating experience is the food. Each boat has it’s own dedicated chef, who’s basically there to cook what you want, when you want (within reason of course!). At the time of writing the chef onboard the SY Jubilaeum was a skilled and extraordinarily talented Thai lady called Noi, who knocked our socks off with her culinary creations from start to finish. Similar to Captain Aye’s tailored approach, we were asked whether we had any likes, dislikes or allergies from the start and the meals served were based around that. One of the passengers mentioned that they particularly liked som tam (a spicy green papaya salad), so before leaving Kawthaung, a crew member was sent back to town to source a fresh papaya from the market. After a short wait, voila, lunch was served.

 

Noi’s tasty spicy som tam (green papaya) salad

 

With the activities agreed and our bellies full of food, the SY Jubilaeum navigated its way as far north as it could reach before sunset. This gave us plenty of time to put our feet up, lap up the sun and enjoy the cool breeze. The plan was then to make our way back to Kawthaung, via some of the Mergui Archipelago’s best islands over the next five nights.

 

Passing time on Burma Boating

 

Once we’d reached our destination, we were sped over (using the yacht’s mini-speed boat) to a nearby island to watch a magnificent burning sunset – this is typically what Burma Boating use to get you from A to B on most excursions.

 

Enjoying the burning colours from a deserted island on our first night

 

With Noi continuing to cook up a storm in the SY Jubilaeum’s kitchen, the next hour or so was spent sampling the yacht’s wine selection. Although soft drinks are provided free of charge, alcohol such as beer, wine and spirits are charged for separately – seeing as it’s easy to lose track of time / what you’ve consumed, keeping a physical tally of what you’ve opened is highly recommended.

 

Noi cooks up a storm in SY Jubilaeum’s kitchen

 

Before we knew it, dinner was finished and we were staring up into a starlit sky, with the SY Jubilaeum’s mast hypnotically bobbing up and down in the foreground. With no mosquitos, a gentle breeze and no internet connection, there was nothing do to other than completely switch off from the world we’d left behind. The following evenings panned out in a similar manner.

 

Peering up at a starlit sky – surely a highlight of any Burma Boating experience

 

It’s important to mention that even though you’ll pay a similar price, staying overnight on Burma Boating is not the same as staying in a luxury hotel suite. Although each of the cabins we inspected are comfortably appointed (and vary in size depending on which yacht you’re assigned / what you’re able to afford), air-conditioning usage is limited to certain hours, it’s impossible to escape the sound of the engine starting in the morning (in the case of no wind) and you’ll need to be mindful of how much water is used to shower and flush with. To ensure expectations are correctly managed, it’s best to think of this as a floating glamping (luxury camping) experience. You even have the option of sleeping up on the top deck, something we’d strongly encourage, even if just for one night.

 

Sleeping arrangements on the top deck

 

Perhaps the biggest benefit sleeping on the deck provides is that you’ll never miss a sunrise. Alarm or not, the natural light will be sure to wake you and a member of crew was always around to prepare a freshly brewed cup of coffee. We experienced some of the best sunrises we’ve ever witnessed this way, and it certainly beat being cooped up in a cabin (or any kind of enclosed space for that matter).

 

A gentle wake up

 

In contrary to what you’ve read thus far, booking with Burma Boating offers so much more than starlit skies, sunsets and tasty alfresco dining. The experiences off the boat were just as memorable as the ones on it, which for anyone concerned about spending too much time on a boat, helped to eliminate any sense of cabin fever. Even if you felt like being unsociable and missing out on Captain Aye’s guided excursions, you’re more than welcome to go off and do your own thing using the resources available. Whether it’s snorkelling, fishing, or kayaking across to one of the Mergui Archipelago’s myriad private islands, there’s plenty to keep everyone active and entertained.

 

Kayaking in paradise

 

An experience you shouldn’t pass up on, assuming routing permits, is kayaking through the mangroves of Lampi Marine National Park, an area that protects over a thousand species of animals, plants and marine life. From passing a fever of baby stingrays to aimlessly floating to a backdrop of tropical sounds, it won’t take long to realise that you’re passing through an area of incredibly rich biodiversity.

 

Lampi National Park with Burma Boating

Kayaking through Lampi Marine National Park

 

The visit to a Moken village was also special. The Moken people are a shy, semi-nomadic group, with a total worldwide population somewhere in the region of two to three thousand. With numbers rapidly declining, partly due to the confiscation of land, pollution and the waters they rely on being heavily overfished, it was a real privilege to meet with them and we hope that tourism will somehow play a part in increasing awareness of these issues. For anyone keen to learn more, Captain Aye informed us of Project Moken (www.projectmoken.com), a non-profit organisation established and run by key members of the Moken community.

 

Moken children pose for a group photo

 

Captain Aye was just as concerned about the marine life as he was the people. No thanks to irresponsible fishing practice, he regularly finds discarded fishing net tangled around coral. Sadly, inside of these it’s common to find hundreds of trapped and starved sea creatures ranging from crabs to clownfish (think Finding Nemo). On a couple of occasions we witnessed Captain Aye and his crew dive into the sea to free tangled netting, with the aim of cleaning up the seafloor and saving any living sea life trapped inside. One crab they found was very fortunate – it had started to grow out of the net but was luckily cut free just in time. Hats of to Captain Aye and Burma Boating for voluntarily taking part in small-scale conservation activities such as this.

 

Captain Aye rescues a crab from some discarded fishing net

 

Captain Aye and his crew were just as passionate about helping the people, and on a couple of occasions donated bags of their own cooked rice to Moken rowers that sailed past. This provided us with the perfect opportunity to have a quick chat (thanks to translation by one of the crew) and get their permission for some photographs.

 

A Moken rower approached the SY Jubilaeum

 

Much to Noi’s delight, one of the passengers, an avid fisherman, lucked out one evening and came back carrying a ginormous king mackerel. This was then incorporated into the breakfast, lunch and dinner menu, with the standout dish being the chilli and lemon marinated sashimi.

 

One of Burma Boating’s passengers comes back with a big catch

 

Regardless of whether you opt for a chartered or shared cruise, Burma Boating is a social experience. The five nights we spent onboard saw us grow incredibly fond of the passengers and crew, although we guess it’s hard not to when you’re all sharing such unique experience. Even though the SY Jubilaeum’s crew were nearing the end of a busy season, it was impossible to tell. They were all extremely enthusiastic throughout and constantly came up with new ways to keep us entertained. Take the penultimate evening for example, the seemingly shy Mumu, whipped out a guitar from nowhere and started serenading us with some Myanmar love songs.

 

Mumu serenades the passengers of SY Jubilaeum with some Myanmar love songs

 

With the trip fast drawing to a close, Burma Boating had one more trick up their sleeves. On an island nearby to where we anchored on the final night, SY Jubilaeum’s crew prepared a seafood barbeque and bonfire. Noi grilled the remainder of the mackerel, hand dived scallops and squid to perfection. We then let off some sky lanterns, made a wish (as is custom) and opened our last bottle of wine by the fire.

 

The perfect send off

 

In conclusion, Burma Boating is a very special experience, quite unlike anything else on offer in Myanmar at present. It’s not cheap, but we do feel it represents extremely good value for money. Starting from approximately USD3000 per person for a five night shared cruise, you’re guaranteed complete exclusivity and comfort in a destination that’s still considered extremely off the beaten track. You’re waited on hand and foot by experienced crew, cooked for by an incredibly talented chef, guided around areas rarely frequented by tourists, and perhaps best of all, you have no option but to completely disconnect. Once you feel comfortable with this (it took us a little bit of time), you’ll be sure to enjoy a taste of what it feels like to be truly free.

 

Feeling free

 

For more information on Burma Boating, or how to go about incorporating it into typical Myanmar touring, do not hesitate to contact one of our specialists now by writing to info@tourmandalay.travel.

SEEDS restaurant, Yangon

We are delighted to introduce SEEDS, a restaurant that aims to offer a relaxed, romantic and contemporary fine dining experience on the grassy banks of Inya Lake.

 

SEEDS restaurant with its eye-catching glass and bamboo facade

 

With a growing number of fine dining establishments looking to capitalise off Yangon’s growing number of expats and tourists, how will SEEDS stand out? Will it quietly fizzle out like some of the other creative culinary ventures, or will it have the staying power to rival some of Yangon’s long established dining establishments? On the back of an exquisite, and very laid-back four course dining experience, here is short review detailing Tour Mandalay’s thoughts.

 

From the moment we walked into the entrance and laid eyes on the ‘Pray for peace’ (written in Burmese) sign surrounded by flower petals, we knew we had stumbled upon something different.

 

A ‘Pray for Peace’ sign surrounded by flower petals decorates the floor of the entrance at SEEDS Yangon

 

Before visiting we’d heard that a lot of bamboo had been used rumours that the entire restaurant was made from bamboo, which wasn’t the case, but the restaurant’s facade for sure makes you think that. Once inside you’re immediately welcomed by a bright, minimalist and spacious interior that successfully blends traditional and modern design techniques.

 

A wooden wind chime hangs from the ceiling inside SEEDS Yangon

 

After being wowed by the interior, we were ushered outside to a candlelit table positioned a few metres away from Inya Lake’s edge. The setting was further complimented by a cool breeze, a rarity in late February and possibly the last of the year. Perhaps it was due to fewer tables, but it felt distinctly more exclusive than Yangon’s other popular lakeside options, and we hope SEEDS plan to maintain this. For if they do, it will surely become the default option for anyone looking to celebrate a special occasion, or to start / end a Myanmar travel itinerary in style.

 

A candlelit lakeside table at SEEDS Yangon

 

Before delving into the menu, first for some wine. Keen to try something new, the sommelier on hand recommended a bottle of Barbera d’Alba (Italian). Having not tried this before, and due to it being moderately priced at USD42, we went with this and weren’t the slightest bit disappointed.  A further three bottles followed in fact. The sommelier could quite easily have pushed something more expensive, but this only helped to highlight the SEEDS restaurant’s approach; diner experience prioritises over everything.

 

A glass cellar showcases SEEDS Yangon’s carefully selected wine selection

 

Shortly after deciding on the wine, our table was presented with the evening’s ‘Menu Lotus’, designed by Swiss Michelin Star Chef, Felix Eppisser. Previously from Le Planteur, as is his lovely wife and the brainchild behind SEEDS, Lucia, it became immediately apparent from reading through that this is a couple keen to unshackle themselves from the norm and to serve dishes that are mostly organic, Asian-inspired, fresh and creative.

 

 

 

One thing that will be sure to please your eyes are the hand-crafted ceramic plates, all designed at GAYA Ceramics in Ubud, Bali. Lucia’s long had a dream to design her own collection of plates, and it must be even more rewarding to see Felix designing his signature creations with the plate’s colour, design and shape in mind. For us, this represented a true blend of love, mutual understanding and dedication.

 

A colourful organic Myanmar vegetable salad, created by Felix and served on Lucia’s hand-crafted ceramic plates

 

For the sweet toothed team at Tour Mandalay, the menu’s pièce de résistance was the desert; a caramelised lemon parfait, served with pomelo salad, burnt almonds and chocolate foam. The chocolate base of the parfait was divine, and this is clearly an area of the kitchen in which Felix excels.

 

Caramelised lemon parfait with pomelo salad, burnt almonds and chocolate foam

 

Speaking of the kitchen, if you’re keen to see Felix and his team in action, why not make a reservation at the chef’s table? Although it would involve giving up on the alfresco dining experience, the room opens up onto the kitchen allowing you to fully appreciate the hard work, passion and attention to detail that goes into creating each of SEEDS Yangon’s dishes.

 

The chef’s table at SEEDS Yangon

 

To finish the experience, a trip to the bottom of the garden (preferably with another bottle of wine) is recommended. Here you will find cushioned rattan seating and a lakeside pavilion propped up by four literally chiselled men.

 

One of four male figures that supports a lake-side pavilion at SEEDS Yangon

 

From here, a wonderful panoramic of Inya Lake can be enjoyed. What makes it extra picturesque are the boats moored up to the banks – apparently the SEEDS Yangon team use these to light the candles that dot the perimeter of the restaurant’s surrounding lily pads.

 

A boat used to light the lakeside candles at SEEDS Yangon

 

The last couple of years have seen some great restaurants come and go in Yangon, but mark our words when we say that SEEDS Yangon is here to stay. Not only does it have one of the best lakeside locations in the city, but Lucia and Felix are bringing with them a wealth of cultural and operational experience from Le Planteur – this is an area in which a lot of budding restaurant entrepreneurs become unstuck (even Heston Blumenthal would find it a challenge!). Due to its small size – similar to Shwe Sa Bwe, but with a lakeside location – it’s likely to feel quiet and relaxed even when fully booked. This will be a big pull for diners looking to avoid some of the busier fine dining establishments seemingly popular with groups. From the plates to the restaurant’s interior design, Lucia’s evidently put her heart and soul into this project and the fact she’s backed by her husband, a Michelin-starred chef, only makes the experience more genuine, connected and unique.

 

If you’re keen to experience the finest lakeside dining available, be sure to make a reservation at SEEDS Yangon now.

 

Tel: 09972784841
Address: No.63 (A), U Htun Nyein Street, Ward (10), Mayangone Township, Yangon

 

The Residence by Sandoway

 

Rating: Medium

 

Opened by the Sandoway Resort in 2013, the Residence by Sandoway is one of the best mid-range options in Ngapali and would perfectly suit those looking to avoid a hotel feel and overly attentive service (it’s still great, just a little bit more natural and relaxed). A stay here is all about you, a comfortable bed and the beach. The Beach Front rooms are the category we would recommend, in particular the ones located on the ground floor with direct beach access. The verandas (complete with two deck chairs) provide guests with a comfortable setting from which to observe local life and admire Ngapali’s glorious sunsets.

 

Best of all, anyone staying at Sandoway Residence will get access to the 5-star Sandoway Resort’s facilities and à la carte breakfast menu. Those not keen to walk the five minutes or so required have the option of dining in-room, but believe us when we say, the light exercise is well-worth it!

 

To give yourself the best chance of securing a Beach Front room with direct beach access, be sure to book well in advance.

 

Facilities (at Sandoway Resort):

  • Cinema
  • Library
  • Restaurant
  • Spa
  • Swimming pool

 

Keen to know what people on TripAdvisor are saying about this property? Please click here to find out.

 

Back to Ngapali accommodation guide

 

Bayview

 

Rating: Medium

 

 

For a property that’s about as centrally located as you can get, the Bayview occupies a relatively quiet section of the beach. Although a stay here will not feel as polished as the experience Ngapali Bay or Sandoway, Bayview does have a distinctly laid back vibe and represents much better value for money. With 45 Deluxe bungalows and rooms, it is not exactly large either, thus ensuring an exclusive and pampered feel.

 

As with most properties in Ngapali, the most sought-after room type is the beach front category, or in Bayview’s case, the Deluxe Beachfront Bungalow. This and the Executive Suite are the only rooms with direct access to the beach – there is a shared lounger area in-front however, so it’s important to bear in mind that it’s not completely private. If this is a concern, then perhaps the Garden View Deluxe Bungalow should be considered. With similar proportions, these cost less and are slightly more private.

 

Active travellers will be sure to appreciate the beach volleyball net and kayaks. A treatment at the spa is also recommended, but make sure you book your appointment early as appointments tend to fill up fast.

 

For a well-located, great value property that always provides Tour Mandalay’s travellers with the best service, a stay at the Bayview should be seriously considered.

 

Facilities:

  • Library
  • Restaurant
  • Spa
  • Swimming pool

 

Keen to know what people on TripAdvisor are saying about this property? Please click here to find out.

 

Back to Ngapali accommodation guide

 

Sandoway Resort

 

Rating: Deluxe

 

Having opened in 1999, Sandoway Resort has enjoyed a long and successful presence on Ngapali’s golden stretch. Surrounded by coconut palms and inviting tropical gardens, each of the resort’s luxuriously appointed villas have been constructed using the finest of locally sourced materials. For the ultimate feeling of luxury and exclusivity, we would recommend booking one of the 120-metre-squared Beach Front Villas.  Set over two floors with a semi-private bay-view veranda, many would agree that this is the best room category on the beach. The Cottage and Deluxe category rooms will not disappoint either, and would perhaps be more suitable for those looking to experience the luxury of the Sandoway without paying a premium.

 

A distinct highlight is the part à la carte part buffet breakfast, which is a pleasure to eat in the resort’s elevated dining area that overlooks the beach. Many hours can be spent here, so it is probably not the best option for anyone looking to get any work done. The Sandoway is also the only property in Ngapali that boasts its own cinema, a 58-seat cinema in fact, which regularly screens international news channels and popular films (hopefully this will more than make up for the fact the Sandoway’s rooms have no televisions).

 

Last minute availability is rare here (especially in the sea front categories), so those keen to stay here should look to book well in advance.

 

Facilities:

  • Cinema
  • Library
  • Restaurant
  • Spa
  • Swimming pool

 

Keen to know what people on TripAdvisor are saying about this property? Please click here to find out.

 

Back to Ngapali accommodation guide

 

 

Ngapali Bay

 

Rating: Luxury

 

Ngapali Bay is one of the most luxurious and best managed resorts in the country. Designed by a British architect and Myanmar interior designer, the resort is made up of 32-private villas, each within short walking distance of Ngapali’s iconic sandy stretch. Those looking for the best sea-view should opt for the ‘Sea Front Villas with Plunge Pool’, but due to there only being four villas of this type, making a reservation in advance is strongly advised. Saying that, even the lead-in category, the ‘Sea View Villas with Terrace’ is not going to disappoint.

 

Thanks to its elevated position and the resort’s central position on the beach, Ngapali Bay’s bar / dining area commands one of the best sunset viewing points in Ngapali. This area looks even more picturesque when the tree lanterns are turned on in the evening, with their soft glow bringing out the silhouettes of the tropical features that surround. If you arrive early enough, you will even be able to commandeer the comfortable futon-style couches looking out over the beachfront.

 

If you’re looking for somewhere to celebrate a special occasion, or simply end your Myanmar touring with a bang, look no further than a stay at Ngapali Bay.

 

Facilities:

  • Library
  • Restaurant
  • Spa
  • Swimming pool

 

Keen to know what people on TripAdvisor are saying about this property? Please click here to find out.

 

Back to Ngapali accommodation guide

 

Hotel Yadanarbon Bagan

hotel-yadanarbon-bagan

 

Rating: Basic

 

Hotel Yadanarbon Bagan is a modern, friendly, comfortable hotel located a short distance away from some of the town’s best restaurants and iconic stupas. At 20sqm for the Superior and 24sqm for the Deluxe, the rooms here are not exactly huge but they’re clean, well appointed and certainly not short of Burmese character. Guests will also benefit from access to the hotel’s private pool and a traditional puppet show that is performed regularly throughout the months of November to February.

 

Facilities:

  • Swimming pool
  • Restaurant
  • Spa

 

Keen to know what people on TripAdvisor are saying about this property? Please click here to find out.

 

Back to Bagan accommodation guide

 

 

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